We walked the property and filmed our findings (see the videos above). Here are the answers to your questions.

What's causing the water intrusion?
It's a combination: the grade slopes toward the house from the gate inward (front), and the rear entrance area sits lower than the surrounding grade, so water collects there. The existing drain is a narrow 4-inch channel that clogs with small debris (mulch, leaves, dirt) during heavy rain — once clogged, water can't reach the pump and backs up. The pump itself is functional; the intake path is what chokes. The volume this season is more than the narrow system can carry.

Garage door vs. back door — how do they differ?
Main garage door (front): water crosses the concrete apron as sheet flow and reaches beneath/around the door — driven by the grade sloping toward the house and the drain clogging at that low point.
Back door (rear): the rear area is a low point where water from all sides pools, then seeps at/around the back door. The existing setup routes it a long way to the far pump — too long for the volume.

How does the proposed work prevent intrusion at each location?
Front: the 18-ft drain becomes a 5-inch wide open channel, repositioned closer to the property edge so water travels further before reaching the garage door, and the wider channel lets debris pass instead of clogging. A new Zoeller M267 sewage pump goes at the front (highest load), grinding water and debris and discharging toward the ditch — so the line stays clear under heavy flow.
Rear: the existing pump is relocated to the rear to handle the back-door low area, so water is pumped out instead of pooling at the door.

Why drainage + pumping instead of just correcting grading?
Regrading redirects surface flow, but it doesn't fix the two real problems — the drain choking on debris and the volume exceeding the pipe run. The site needs a system that can carry the flow and the debris; that's what this does. Most properties don't need this level of system — this one does.

How will the new pump work with the existing pump?
They don't conflict — they cover different areas. The new M267 (sewage-type, grinds solids) serves the front; the existing pump, relocated to the rear, serves the back. Each has its own basin and discharges separately.

Why is the 24-ft discharge adequate vs. the 80-ft to the ditch?
The 24-ft line discharges past the point where the grading reverses away from the foundation — from there the grade carries the water away from the house on its own, ending in a pop-up basin that disperses it rather than pooling. The 80-ft run to the ditch is not needed: the ditch itself is the weak point here, because once it fills it doesn't allow free flow, so pushing water toward it during the storm we're designing for is the wrong direction.

The existing pump and basin — are you replacing them?
No. Both the existing sump pump and its basin (bucket) are working properly and are being reused — they're relocated to the rear low area as a unit. They'll be pulled, inspected and flow-tested before they're reinstalled; if either isn't sound, you'll be told before it goes back in. If they're working, there's no reason to replace them — replacement is only if you want the peace of mind of new equipment, and that's your call, not a requirement of this scope.

Water alarm and backup power?
A separate high-water alarm isn't needed for this job: the existing rear pump and the new front pump are independent systems in two separate areas, so neither one is a single point of failure. The battery-backup add-on was offered and declined — if you ever want battery backup later, it can be added on its own.

Effectiveness, maintenance & warranty:
Effectiveness: sized for high-volume flow and debris — materially reduces intrusion at both doors.
Limitations: extreme storms can still exceed any system; drains need periodic debris clearing.
Maintenance: clear drain channels a couple times a year, check the pop-up basin, test the pump before wet season.
Warranty: 12 months on drainage workmanship · 2 years on the pump.

By agreeing to these Terms and Conditions, the customer acknowledges and accepts the outlined responsibilities and scope of work.

Scope: All work described in the Included Scope above. Any work not listed is not included unless agreed in writing.

Structural excluded: foundation modifications, engineering, interior drainage systems.

Owner supplies: none required.

Contractor supplies: 5-inch drainage channel, large-capacity sump pump with basin, water check valve, 2-inch PVC discharge line, pop-up basin, electrical materials.

MEP contingency: if live wiring or underground utility lines are found during the work, a change order covers rerouting.

Notes:
**Jobsite will be left clean once completed.
**Final measurements will be confirmed with the site drawing before installation.

Warranty:
**12 months drainage workmanship.
**2 years pump warranty.

Payment Terms:
· Total Project Cost: $5,000.00
· Deposit to Schedule: $2,500.00
· Balance on Completion: $2,500.00

Check is a preferred method.
**You can pay by credit card using the link below.
https://request.plastiq.com/pay-tidewater-home-improvement-llc
Cards not eligible for payment:
- Virtual Affirm credit card

Validity: one (1) week from the date above.